Thursday, December 17, 2015

Seward's folly

Seward Street Slides
San Francisco may not be as weird as Portland, Oregon or Austin, Texas, but our City does occasionally cultivate places with a sense of whimsy. Sometimes a curious feature is not intentional -- Lombard's famous curves were constructed to permit access up and down a steep hillside -- but a few playful spots have been intentionally created, like the Seward Street Slides. You're not likely to find these concrete shoots by accident; they are tucked away off a residential street in the Castro. This walk visits these slides, several alleys, and an open space hill with great views.


Streets: Douglas Street, Corwin Street, Acme Alley, Seward Street, 19th Street, Caselli Avenue, Clover Lane, Grand View Terrace, Grand View Avenue, and 21st Street
Neighborhood: Castro
Length: entire walk about 1.4 miles
Character: residential
Starting coordinates:  37.755465° -122.438799°
View from Kite Hill
Walk it:
Begin on the corner of Douglas and 21st Street, where street parking is generally available (or start at the end of Grand View Terrace/Kite Hill overlook, where there are some spots, and rework your walk from there). Start walking north on the lower section of Douglas, a split street with an upper "ramp" descending from Romain Street. After one long block, Douglas continues down as steps; turn left, now on Corwin Street.
     Pass some rather unlovely blocky apartment buildings and look for signed Acme Alley on the right. Turn right onto Acme Alley, pass the sweet community garden and descend to the Seward Street Slides, on the left. The slides were constructed in 1973, on a plot of land that neighbors saved from development. Everyone loves them, but note that adults are supposed to be accompanied by kids to use them, and the slides are locked up between dusk and dawn. At the base of the slides, turn left onto Seward Street.
     This one block street ends at 19th Street -- turn right. Walk one block, then turn left onto Douglas again. At the end of the next block, turn left onto Caselli. But pause for a moment here to marvel at the gigantic building on the corner. This big white Victorian is the Caselli Mansion, built in 1892, now a SF landmark. Walk up Caselli, then turn left onto Clover Lane.
     This alley climbs via steps, crossing Thorp Lane (which serves as an access road to the garages belonging to houses on Caselli and 19th Street) and continuing to 19th Street. Cross 19th and resume walking on Clover Lane, here a badly eroded and steep alley that is thankfully short. The path ends at the base of Kite Hill -- walk up the obvious (and steep) path to a bench and viewpoint. From here enjoy sweeping views of downtown San Francisco. Corona Heights' rocky top is prominent to the north.
     Continue uphill a bit more, to the edge of the open space, and resume walking on Grand View Terrace. This one-block-long street ends at Grand View Avenue. Turn left. About 1/2 way down the block, look for signed Acme Alley. This little dead end stub doesn't go far, but if you walk down it a few steps you'll see the Transamerica Pyramid perfectly framed by a leafy arch spanning the alley. The name of this alley always makes me smile and think of Road Runner. Continue down Grand View Avenue past Romain to an unusual intersection. Here a very tall retaining wall holds up one lane of the street on the right, while the other "way" of the street dips to meet 21st Street. Turn left onto 21st Street and after one block you'll be back at the starting point.


Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Hilltop of the gods

Mount Olympus
A weathered old monument stands on top of a hillside in the Parnassus neighborhood. There's a space for a plaque (which seems to have be eroded away) but no hints why the stone tower stands here. Historic photos reveal a past glory: this is Mount Olympus.

In the late 1800's land baron Adolf Sutro donated a statue, the Triumph of Light, for this spot that was thought to be the geographic center of San Francisco. Development crept up the hills surrounding Mount Olympus, gradually obscuring the sweeping views. The statue crumbled, was eventually removed (and apparently lost) and the hilltop faded into obscurity.

A walk to Mount Olympus today feels a bit like a stroll through an old European village. The streets are narrow and lightly traveled and the houses sit right on the edge of the sidewalks, squeezed into the available real estate and then hanging off steep hillsides.


Street: Upper Terrace
Neighborhood: Parnassus
Length: entire walk 1/2 mile
Character: residential
Starting coordinates: 37.763984° -122.444467°
Mount Olympus Stairs
Walk it:
Park on Upper Terrace or surrounding streets near the intersection with Clifford Terrace. Begin on Upper Terrace, walking south. Note an interesting mix of houses here, some very old. As Upper Terrace ascends, cross to the left side of the street near the retaining wall for a great view to Twin Peaks. Across the street Back Alley Way drops from the hilltop. Continue uphill on Upper Terrace. The houses are packed close together but there are a few gaps where you can enjoy views west past Sutro's old forest. Upper Terrace loops around the hilltop and monument, at a lofty 570 feet. This dead end was very quiet when I visited and the monument was empty. Walk to the top and around, although there really isn't much to see. When you're ready, look for unsigned and very easy to miss steps between 455 and 480. The Mount Olympus Stairs drop between houses and end on Upper Terrace. Turn left and return to your starting point.

Friday, November 20, 2015

Elevator down/Escalator up

Lyon steps and view north

Every morning fitness enthusiasts run up and down the Lyon steps. The steps do offer excellent cardiac opportunities, but I prefer the views. Combine the steps with a tour through the Presidio's southeast corner and you have an alternative to an hour at the gym (or running up and down steps).

Streets: West Pacific Avenue, Lyon Street, Lyon steps, Lombard Street, Presidio Boulevard, Sumner Street, Liggett Avenue, and Lovers' Lane
Neighborhoods: Presidio, Lower Pacific Heights, and Cow Hollow
Length: entire loop is 1.65 miles
Character: residential and woods
Starting coordinates:  37.792143° -122.448686°

Walk it:
Begin from a small parking pullout along West Pacific Avenue (alternate parking usually available along the street further west as well, or on the surrounding city streets). Walk uphill toward Presidio Boulevard, pausing to note the end (or beginning) of Andy Goldsworthy's Wood Line, on the left. At the stop sign, cross to the other side of West Pacific, then cross Presidio Boulevard at the crosswalk. Turn left onto Broadway (not signed as such here). This paved "road" heads uphill -- good views to the left are somewhat screened by eucalyptus. At the gate, turn left onto Lyon, then immediately begin to descend. Ah, the views! The Palace of Fine Arts, the bay, and Angel Island shine in the morning sunlight. At the bottom of the first set of steps note the gorgeous little garden and stately manor on the right. Descend to cross Vallejo Street and drop down the second set of steps, which are steeper and can be slippery when wet. Straight ahead is a curious site -- a small grove of tall redwoods. At the base of the steps you'll be back on Lyon Street proper. Now you'll pass those redwoods, some of the tallest native trees in the city. Once past six houses on the left the Presidio wall picks up. When I last walked here I heard and saw some of our "city parrots" in the trees along the street. When you get to the Lombard gate, turn left. The Letterman complex is off to the right (good exploring if you want to stretch the walk). Switch to the opposite side of the street at the crosswalk and continue on Lombard to the intersection with Presidio Boulevard. Turn left and cross to the far side of the street. An easy climb past pretty houses brings you to Sumner Street. Turn right and almost immediately, turn left onto Liggett Avenue. There's no sidewalk here so stay as far off the pavement as you can manage. Before Liggett meets Clark Street, turn left onto a wide paved sidewalk, Lovers' Lane. This sidewalk is one of San Francisco's oldest streets -- soldiers in the Presidio used it to walk into "town," hence the name. Almost immediately, turn left into the eucalyptus forest and look for the other end of Wood Line. Follow the sinuous line of eucalyptus trunks uphill (gets a bit steeper and more sandy at the end). When you see the end of the line, turn right to Lovers' Lane, left to West Pacific, and right to return to your car.
Andy Goldsworthy's Wood Line

Saturday, November 14, 2015

Tanks a lot

Downtown San Francisco view from Tank Hill
Folks who live in Cole Valley often shake their heads at the tourists who flock to the city overlook at Twin Peaks. Why fight for a parking space (and risk a broken window) when you could enjoy a nearly identical view from Tank Hill? The rock-studded knoll juts up from the edge of the Clarendon Heights neighborhood; access from unsigned steps on Clarendon Avenue and/or Belgrave Avenue. The vista isn't quite as stunning as Twin Peaks (which boasts 360 degree views), but it's a lovely place to visit and far less crowded than Twin Peaks.

Streets: Belgrave Avenue, Stanyan Street, and Clarendon Avenue
Neighborhoods: Clarendon Heights, Forest Knolls, and Parnassus
Length: entire walk is 1.6 mile loop
Character: residential
Starting coordinates:  37.761291°N -122.452012°W

Walk it:
Begin on Stanyan Street near the intersection with 17th Street. Look for steps (signed Interior Greenbelt) leading into Sutro Forest on the west side of the street. Walk up the steps and start hiking on a path initially squeezed between two houses. Historic Trail begins climbing through eucalyptus woods. Woodland Creek is shown on the map running downhill to the right; the creekbed is not visible from the trail. Ivy is very common and has choked away potential native plants, but volunteers are attempting to restore the woods with shrubs that might have thrived here before Adolf Sutro planted his forest. Historic Trail climbs steadily to a signed junction with Edgewood Trail at 0.43 mile. Turn left onto Fairy Gates Trail.
Historic Trail in Sutro Forest
A bit more climbing brings you to another signed junction at 0.5 mile. Turn left and remain on Fairy Gates Trail. The narrow path runs downslope from a private street on the right which accesses the UCSF Medical Center. In late winter, look for native osoberry here. Poison oak is also common, on and around the rock outcrops along the trail. Watch out for cyclists, as there is limited sight distance. At 0.66 mile, Fairy Gates Trail ends near the Chancellor's House, on the left. What a job perk -- that's some place! Turn left and walk on the sidewalk downhill to the intersection with Clarendon Avenue, at 0.76 mile. Turn left. A few big houses hang off the side of the hill at the edge of the forest on the left. Check out the house on the right side of Clarendon (oddly, with a Stanyan Street address) that was built in 2013 without a garage or driveway (google 1410 Stanyan if you're interested in the details). On the left side of Clarendon, pause at the gated and locked Stanyan Steps. The caption on the gate proclaims these dead-end steps a cul de sac. The steps access a handful of houses; are these the only locked "public" steps in the City? Continuing down Clarendon, enjoy the breaks in between houses that permit sneak views north. Better views to come! Just past the intersection with Twin Peaks Boulevard, turn left onto an unmarked set of wood steps. At the top, welcome to Tank Hill! A flat plateau, shaded by eucalyptus, leads to a bare rocky hillside with those promised awesome views. From the Golden Gate to San Bruno Mountain, it's a lovely panorama. The name refers to a water tank that once sat on this hill. When ready, look for a rough and rocky path descending from the northwest corner of the hill. Head down off Tank Hill to the end of Belgrave Avenue. Many big lovely homes here. Pass Shrader Street and continue on Belgrave to Stanyan (a path heads into Sutro Forest at the end of Belgrave but it deadends into poison oak). Turn right on Stanyan and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

Rock steady

Rocky Outcrop Park on 14th Avenue
The western side of the City was known as the great sand waste. Even today there are still small steep hillsides inches deep in sand (Hawk Hill above Hoover Middle School as an example). But there are no hills without rock, and the neighborhoods that overlook the Sunset are built on solid ground. With dense development rock formations are often obliterated or hard to spot; Rocky Outcrop Park on 14th Avenue is an exception.
View to the ocean from Funston Avenue
Street: 14th Avenue
Neighborhood: Golden Gate Heights
Length: 0.18 mile -- entire walk is a 0.26 mile loop
From: Pacheco to Ortega
Character: residential
Starting coordinates for walk:  37.752762°"N -122.467775°"W



Walk it:
Park near the intersection of 11th Avenue and Ortega. Begin walking uphill on Ortega (on the upper side of this split street). Turn left onto Aerial Way. These wide concrete steps are unremarkable, but the view back to the east is not -- sweeping vistas of Twin Peaks, Mount Sutro, and the East Bay are marred only by a utility pole and attendant lines. At the top of Aerial, turn right onto Pacheco. From here, one of the highest residential streets in the City, the views are outstanding. Where Pacheco sweeps back to the left, look for a small octagon-shaped house adjacent to Cascade Walk. From the top of these steps views north include the Golden Gate Bridge towers and Marin Headlands. Here Pacheco ends and Funston Avenue takes over. As you walk south on Funston, a generous empty sidelot permits an exceptional view west to the ocean. On a windy day prepare for strong gusts at this spot. Look for the continuation of Aerial Way on the right, and descend on these steep concrete steps. At their base, turn right on 14th Avenue. After a few houses on the right you'll reach the edge of Rocky Outcrop Park. This massive Franciscan chert outcrop stretches more than a tenth of a mile; native plants here host endangered butterflies. Look up at the houses on Pacheco perched above the outcrop and envy their views. At the corner of Ortega and 14th Avenue, pause to savor a view of Grand View Park, to the north, and a castle-like house on Ortega just above the outcrop. Turn right onto Ortega. You'll be back on this split street again, and either leg of the street is fine for walking. The initial upper stretch lacks a sidewalk but there is one further along. Enjoy more stupendous views north and east as you continue back to the starting point of Ortega at 11th.


Tuesday, October 27, 2015

The Trouble with Harry 

Harry Steps, in Glen Park
Street: Harry
Neighborhood: Glen Park
Length: 350 feet
From: Beacon to Laidley
Character: Steps, residential
Billy Goat Hill
Curious bits: The trouble with Harry is that I don't have the money to live there! This gorgeous block long staircase of wood and cement accesses 5 houses, one of which has the most amazing huge yard.
Starting coordinates:  37°44'27.46"N 122°25'59.68"W

Walk it: Park at the top of Billy Goat Hill on Beacon Street and walk to the south (toward Miguel). Views of the City here are outstanding. Turn left onto signed Harry (is a street? a lane?). The first set of steps are wood and a bit rickety. About 1/2 way down, look to the right for an amazing estate, set way back from the steps, on a flat bench of real estate. The steps are well-shaded from surrounding trees and shrubs, blocking most City views. The last stretch is cement steps. At the end of Harry, turn left onto Laidley. This is a split street; either the higher or lower segment is fine. Check out the adorable, oddly-shaped old house on the corner of Laidley and 30th, before turning left into Billy Goat Park. The wide path zigzags uphill through grassland and big patches of blackberry brambles. Pause at the rock upcropping on the right to savor the views, then continue uphill to Beacon Street.

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Cul de sac surprise


Street: Coventry Lane
Coventry Lane
Neighborhood: Westwood Highlands
Length: 0.04 mile
From: end of Coventry Court to Myra Way
Character: residential
Curious bits: this lovely alley is a steep paved path where you might see squirrels scuttering along the fences and hummingbirds buzzing overhead.
Starting coordinates:  37°44'11.71"N 122°27'9.54"W (Coventry Lane at Coventry Court)
Coventry Lane


Walk it: As most locals know and many visitors soon discover, several San Francisco neighborhoods are easier to walk or bike than to drive. Steep hillsides, meandering, narrow streets, and dead-ends constantly challenge drivers. Often while driving I can see where I want to go, but can't figure out how to get there. I find it much more relaxing (and healthy) to park the car and set out on foot. The high slopes of Westwood Highlands reward the walker, with steep alleys and steps that create delightful excursions. Start at the end of Coventry Court (there is always abundant parking on Cresta Vista). Signed Coventry Lane squeezes between houses and heads uphill. Fenced on both sides, the alley bends sharply right, bends sharply left, then ends at Myra Way. From here, turn left and carefully cross the street to the Mount Davidson entrance just past the bus stop. Walk up the hill for some of the best views in San Francisco. (If you want a proper hike, visit my Mount Davidson page on BAHiker.)